Tag Archives: venice 2012

Venice 2012 Day 6: Trattoria al Gatto Nero and Pizzeria la Perla

It was another beautiful weather day – how fortunate are we so far for late October? So we decided to make it a lagoon day by going back to Murano, then heading to Burano and Torcello if we had the time. We wanted to visit Murano on a day when the furnaces were open and we could hopefully see some of the glass makers at work.

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Venice 2012 Day 5: Osteria al Bacareto and a beccafico (again)

It was Monday morning and after a very busy weekend, we decided to spend the day on somewhat lazy walkabout. We started out heading over the Accademia Bridge and doing some window shopping at the many galleries, mask crafters and antique shops in the area. Slowly we made our way into the Santa Croce sestieri, where we had not spent much of any time at all last trip. We stopped in a few interesting churches along the way and the lovely Scuola Grade dei Carmini to admire the wonderful artwork and ceiling canvases. It was a pleasant walk through campos and calles filled largely with students as we made our way up all the way near the train station. It really was a beautiful weather day and I couldn’t keep the camera away for very long at all…every little footbridge and passageway screamed to be photographed.

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Venice 2012 Day 4: Osteria Al Ponte “La Patatina” and Bacaro Da Fiore

The previous day had been so overwhelming and busy we slept in quite late the next morning, not in any particular rush to get anywhere. We lingered about our apartment before going for a late breakfast at what was already becoming our regular morning hangout: Bar Spritz. Some mornings it was a cafe and a brioche, but on a later morning, one of their savory croissants or sandwiches was more in order to start the day. If we arrived early, there was a tiny old lady who would show up about 9:30 for her morning birra. When teased she would profusely deny the appropriateness of anything heavy to drink (god forbid grappa!) early in the day. But beer? Totally perfecto in the morning. One glass and she’d be off for the day’s errands.

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Venice 2012 Day 3: B Restaurant Alla Vecchia Pescheria (Murano) and Al Vagon

Day three in Venice was a whirlwind that is exhausting for me to even begin to write about!

We set out with a plan to spend the bulk of our day on Murano – last trip we’d only touched down there briefly (spending all of a day on Burano and Torcello instead). I’ve been a collector of Murano glass for years and we had it in our heads to shop for a chandelier for the house this trip. But getting to Murano meant a decent hike up to the Fondamente Nuove vaporetto stop first. This was fine as there were several spots along the way we wanted to check out – including the incredible Church of Santa Maria dei Miracoli which had always been closed every time we passed by it last trip. Fortunately this time the doors were open and we were able to admire the incredible (and dizzying) interior of this beautiful church – restored in 1987–1997 and partly funded by (you guessed it) Save Venice.

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Venice 2012 Day 2: a beccafico and Osteria Al Pozzo Roverso

On our first full day in Venice, we wasted no time working our way through our “art agenda”, spending the entire morning revisiting the Gallerie dell’Accademia. It was a quick walk from our apartment, over the Accademia Bridge which we would travel across many times over the next two weeks. Not every day, however, was the sky as clear and the view as beautiful as this:

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