Category Archives: Italy

Italy 2014 Day 12: Antica Pizzeria Vicolo Della Neve (Salerno)

It was time at last to say goodbye to Naples and head on to the next destination for our trip: the city of Salerno.  This was going to be an interesting experience, as neither of us had ever been to Salerno before or really knew what to expect. I was hoping I’d made a good choice as well in deciding to explore the Amalfi Coast from this location instead of the generally more popular (with tourists at least) town of Sorrento. Our guide books said next to nothing about Salerno, but I’d read online that it tended to be more lively in the wintertime than other coastal towns, it would save us time in heading further south to see Paestum, and conveniently it was also directly on the Frecciarossa high speed line connecting to Rome and Naples.

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Italy 2014 Day 11: Ristorante Pizzeria La Fornacella (Ercolano) and Lombardi a S. Chiara (Naples)

This was to be our last full day in Naples, yet we would be spending it largely elsewhere: visiting the archeological site of Herculaneum. Destroyed in the same 79 AD eruption of Vesuvius that buried Pompeii, Herculaneum is a smaller site that is actually better preserved than its more well-known “sister city”.  Buried under approximately 20 meters of ash, wooden beams and household items are preserved here (even some food as well!), and the frescoes on many walls are more complete and vibrant.  There is even an ancient wooden boat which had been found at the shoreline, along with the skeletal remains of some 300 people who tried to flee but were caught in the unsurvivable blast of hot ash.

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Italy 2014 Day 10: Henry VIII Pizza & Grill and Lemme Lemme (Naples)

We only had two more full days in Naples, so it was time to knock out as many “must see”s as possible. Most importantly we wanted to get to the two Caravaggio paintings in Naples we had not seen yet, and I had finally figured out exactly where one of them was on view: the Gallerie d’Italia in Palazzo Zevallos Stigliano. The Gallerie has a small but very nice collection of works by artists of Southern Italy, but its crowning piece is Caravaggio’s Martyrdom of Saint Ursula, believed to be the artist’s last finished painting. Continue reading

Italy 2014 Day 9: Pompeii and Zi Teresa (Naples)

This is largely going to be a photo post, as we spent the bulk of this day at the archeological site of Pompeii. And really, words generally fail to capture how incredible the experience is. Grand, eerie, haunting, fascinating, reflective…all of these things and more.

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Italy 2014 Day 8: Lomdardi a Santa Chiara (Naples)

After our long day previously on Capri, we happily slept in the next morning and decided (for us at least) to take things easy. That meant more churches and chapels, of which Naples is in no shortage! There were several major ones we had not visited yet, so we planned to tackle what we could that was still in the historic part of town, which we were beginning to find familiar and comfortable despite its noisy, crowded streets (and vespas ready to run you down if you weren’t paying attention.)

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