A Father’s Day Feast

My sweetie’s dad was coming over for a Father’s Day meal, so I wanted to try to cook something special yesterday. It took me a little while to figure out my menu but at the end of the day it worked beautifully. In fact I got praise from both “men in my life” that it was one of my best meals to date, from start to finish!

Here’s the breakdown on what I prepared.

One of dad’s favorite foods is chicken livers – me too! I know that sounds weird but I just love chicken liver, either chopped or as an Italian-style crostini topping. I’ve tried numerous recipes for preparing them as a crostini topping and often wasn’t fully satisfied with the results – until now! I followed the recipe in Jennifer McLagan’s The Odd Bits: How to Cook the Rest of the Animal, which uses shallots, rosemary, capers and dry vermouth for seasoning and flavor. This was the best I’ve ever tasted, even if it’s not much to look at.

chicken livers

To serve I grilled up some crostini bread slices, and also made a fresh tomato topping with onions, olive oil, parsley and a fire-roasted long hot pepper.

tomato salsa

For the main course, I figured nothing says Father’s Day like steaks on the grill! I had some beautiful rib eye steaks from Monte the Meat Man, which I seasoned simply with a little olive oil, ground pepper and Italian herb-flavored sea salt. It was raining out, but that was no problem as I just used my Emeril Cast-Iron Grill Pan. The more I use that pan, the more I love it as it’s so much easier to control and monitor the temperature for perfect grilling than using an outdoor gas grill.

Rib Eye steaks on the grill pan

I wanted to do something different than typical potatoes as a side dish. One of my local farmers’ markets had beautiful local turnips this past week, so I ended up trying Tyler Florence’s Buttered Turnip Puree. I actually cut back a little bit on the butter and thickened the puree on the stove top a bit before serving, as it seemed a little thin. I can say, however, that it was a beautiful pairing with the steaks, which I had just finished off with a little balsamic vinegar and fresh baby bitter greens from the garden. The parsnips added a super-creamy note to the steaks – this is a combination I am definitely going to make again in the future and it got rave reviews from everyone.

rib eye steak over parsnip puree

Finally, what to do for dessert? Well, I had just seen an episode of Mary Ann Esposito’s “Ciao Italia” the other morning where she’d made these stunning looking Whipped Ricotta Cherry Parfaits. Lucky for me, my farmers’ market had fresh local cherries too so I could give the recipe a try. It came out just as good as it had looked on tv, with a rich cheesecake-like flavor without all of the hard work!

cherry ricotta parfaits

All in all, I couldn’t have been happier with how everything came out! It was also a nice meal for me as a chef as I was able to do so much of the preparation work in advance – the parfaits, the liver, the tomato salsa – and then only quickly finish up the parsnips and steaks right before serving. And let’s also note there was nary a leftover in sight by the end of the evening either – save that one extra cherry parfait that sweetie and I will share tonight!

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Send me an Amazon gift card, and what do I buy?

This should come as no surprise to anyone…cookbooks!

This should surprise no one

This should surprise no one

Last month I won top prize in Zujava’s Magnum Opus Contest for my article about visiting Milan, Italy. When my $100 Amazon Gift Card arrived via email, I went on a cookbook frenzy to finally get a few new (and older) titles for my library. I can’t wait to explore the ones that are new to me, and also revisit some old favorites as well.

Chef Paul Prudhomme’s Louisiana Kitchen is one of those old favorites. My grandmother learned to cook New Orleans and creole recipes thanks to this cookbook, and I still remember some of those dishes fondly. My mother now has my grandmother’s copy, and I’ve been looking for one of my own for some time. I can’t wait to make his amazing Shrimp Etouffee again.

Primi Piatti: Italian First Courses That Make a Meal is an amazing little Italian cookbook which my mom found a copy of one day in a used bookstore. I’ve loved everything we’ve tried from it together so far; the recipes really take me back to Italy and there’s a lot of recipes that remind me of or come directly from the Venetian cuisine that I love.

I bought Rick Bayless’ Mexican Everyday because of how much I’m enjoying the cookbook of his that first I bought a few months ago, Rick Bayless’s Mexican Kitchen: Capturing the Vibrant Flavors of a World-Class Cuisine. Ming Tsai is another “celebrity chef” whose cooking (and personality) I enjoy, and Simply Ming: Easy Techniques for East-Meets-West Meals looks amazing so far; I love the book’s approach of presenting a single spice mix, sauce or marinade and showing the many easy ways it can be used for different meals.

Two books are on cuisines I really haven’t explored very much yet. Although I have a few Caribbean cookbooks, I haven’t been fully pleased with any of them to date. I’m hoping that Eat Caribbean will present a bit more variety of Caribbean food, more of the dishes I’ve enjoyed in years past on different islands. And I’ve never, ever tried making North African food before, so North African Cooking should be a definite adventure.

Lastly, I bought two books to hopefully help improve my pork “prowess”, especially as I have a freezer starting to build up with a backlog of organ meats and “odd bits” from our pigs. To that end, Odd Bits: How to Cook the Rest of the Animal looked like the perfect book to finally give me some ideas on how to properly and best try cooking pigs’ feet, ears, tongue, liver, kidneys, and the other offal meats I’ve asked our butcher to save for me but haven’t had time to experiment with. The book is an absolute delight to read through so far, and many of the recipes look wonderful. Now to just convince my partner David to try them with me! The Whole Hog Cookbook: Chops, Loin, Shoulder, Bacon, and All That Good Stuff looks to be a little less adventurous, but does present a lot of solid-looking, basic pork dishes plus a few interesting twists like how to bake with bacon and Southern pork classics.

All in all, these books should give me plenty of fun recipes to experiment with this summer. Thanks again to Zujava for running the contest and for picking me for the reward – you can see I’ve put it to good use and perhaps these will inspire some new recipes from me as well that I can write up for future “Leaves”.

Sign up for Zujava.com: Simple online publishing.

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Receipe test: Joe Sponzo’s Tuscan Pork Stew with Polenta

I’ve been utilizing Eat Your Books a bit more these days as they’ve got an increasing number of cookbooks indexed, compared to when I first signed up with the site 2+ years ago. I find myself especially cooking a lot more recipes from my pile of Food & Wine magazines (and yearly collections) as otherwise it’s nearly impossible to browse through them all and find the right recipe at the right time.

One such “right recipe” that I happened upon this past week was a Tuscan Pork Stew with Polenta by Chef Joe Sponzo. It might be some time before the sweetie and I can afford a vacation to (or wedding at!) Il Palagio, but in the meantime it’s nice to try out some of the food enjoyed at the estate, such as this dish. It was a fair amount of work but the end result was well worth it.

I ended up marinating my pork for almost two days in the red wine, fresh herbs and vegetables. (Of course, as always this was beautiful stew pork from my mother’s pastured pigs.)

Marinated pork

After rinsing off the marinade, the pork is simmered in water for about 10 minutes, then drained and dried off.

pork in water

Meanwhile I got my veggies chopped and ready.

chopped veggies for stew

Time to brown everything in some olive oil…

Browning the pork and vegetables

In goes more wine, tomato paste and stock to simmer for almost two hours.

Simmering pork stew

The end result on top of polenta? Delicious.

Tuscan Pork Stew with Polenta

This dish might not be one I’ll make on a regular basis because of the amount of work and time involved, but I’ll definitely keep it in mind for the next time I have some pork stew meat to use up. I think it would be a wonderful dinner party meal as well, so perhaps I’ll do it up in advance for my next Christmas party.

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Sapori Trattoria BYOB in Collingswood, NJ

Every year for my birthday I like to visit a restaurant that’s been on my “must try” list for ages. This year, that restaurant was Sapori Trattoria in Collingswood. As skeptical as I am about most New Jersey Italian restaurants being “authentic” Italian (and not Italian-American), the menu at Sapori intrigued me by promising some original offerings far beyond the typical Marsala, Piccatta and Parm that typically dominate in these parts. Head Chef Franco Lombardo hails originally from Palermo and worked for some years at the popular and well-respected La Locanda Del Ghiottone in Philadelphia before opening Sapori. All in all, it sounded promising, and overall, I was pleased (if not “blown away”) with our experience.

Ideally I had wanted to go on a weeknight when Sapori offers a 4-course tasting menu for $45, but that was hard for us to schedule. Instead I called early Saturday afternoon to see if I could get a reservation for that evening. Ideally I had wanted 7pm but was offered 6:30 instead, which was okay…I assumed that meant the restaurant would be packed later on in the evening. Curiously, when we arrived it seemed much busier early on with one larger party, and there were a number of empty tables around us while we ate (well past 7pm).

Not a big deal. We had found street parking nearby easy enough and entered Sapori to find an attractive, albeit a bit dark, dining room. The ambiance is meant to invoke medieval Italy with stone floors and walls, dark curtains, wrought-iron decorations, and muted chandelier lighting. We started reading over the menus, complete with the amusing last page which explains a bit about the chef’s philosophy and why you won’t see certain things on the menu. That’s pretty authentically Italian, I thought. David gave it his best “Tony Soprano” look of approval:

David at Sapori

Being it was my birthday, I had brought a rather special bottle of Tuscan red wine to enjoy which we had purchased several years before when in Florence. In retrospect, I should have mentioned to our server it was an older bottle of wine, as he was a bit too quick and rough with his corkscrew – and broke the cork while first attempting to open the bottle. I probably held my breath as he finally slowed down, realized it was an older bottle…and then, thankfully, managed to work the rest of the cork out without getting any in the wine itself. Whew.

Our server read off the specials of the night and it was a difficult decision trying to choose what to order. One antipasti special was grilled stuffed seppie wrapped in prosciutto – I couldn’t resist trying that while David went for his typical favorite to start, the beef carpaccio. While we waited for the appetizers there was some good bread to enjoy, served unusually with a hummus dipping sauce. I have to be a bit careful around hummus because of my garlic intolerance issues but it seemed pretty mild.

My grilled seppie was very tasty, and definitely inspiring – I’m absolutely going to try making something similar at home this summer on the grill. David gave the carpaccio a thumbs up and I enjoyed the very small bite I got of it before he cleaned his plate.

Prosciutto wrapped stuffed seppie

Prosciutto wrapped stuffed seppie

Carpaccio di Carne

Carpaccio di Carne

We appreciated that our waiter offered to split a single order of pasta for us to share as a more “Primi Piatti”-style portion than a full dinner. We both wanted to try the “Casarecce con gamberi, zucchine e zafferano” (Diced Maine Shrimp sautéed with zucchine, grape tomatoes, pine-nuts, shallot and garlic in a white wine-saffron sauce, tossed with casarecce pasta). This was very clean and light in flavor and a perfectly fine portion size to enjoy before our main courses.

Casarecce con gamberi, zucchine e zafferano

Casarecce con gamberi, zucchine e zafferano

I had a craving for steak that evening so I chose the Scaloppine di manzo (Tender filets of grass-fed beef hanger steak, flash seared and topped with a barolo reduction-dried cherry sauce, served next to red beets and mascarpone flavored mashed potatoes.) That’s a mouthful of a description and it matched the rich flavor of this hearty dish. The hanger steak was cooked just to the temperature I wanted and I liked the sauce…too bad the lighting was so dark it was hard to get a photo that really showed this dish off more attractively…

Scaloppine di manzo

Scaloppine di manzo

David had the Maiale alle mele: pork medallions pan-seared and topped with a yellow apple-scallion-pancetta-demiglaze touch of honey sauce, served with the same mashed potatoes and beets. He enjoyed it, I’m not sure the beets were as good of a vegetable choice with his pork as with my steak.

Maiale alle mele

Maiale alle mele

I know we shared and enjoyed a light dessert afterward but regrettably I can’t recall the specifics of it – I think I was just a bit too full from the rich meal to completely appreciate it by that point.

Did I enjoy the meal overall? Assuredly. For this area of South Jersey, Sapori definitely offers Italian dining that’s a cut above the competition in authenticity and originality of offerings. Was it as phenomenal as perhaps I’d been hoping for? Not quite. The meat dishes were maybe a little heavy on the rich sauces for my taste, but I’d put the meal overall on level with many of the Italian BYOBs in Philadelphia where I dined in my years living in the city. I would go back again sometime for sure to try more offerings of the menu and I do want to try the tasting special on a weeknight, to really see what’s the best that Chef Lombardo has to offer.

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Pork project of the day: making stock

What to do with a pile of pork bones from our last pig?

Pork Bones

Turn them into delicious homemade pork stock, of course!

roasted bones

The bones after roasting for 30 minutes at 400 degrees

veggies in stock pot

Some veggies and herbs in a stock pot with a little bit of pork fat

Adding water to the stock pot

Just add water!

after cooking

About 6 hours later…

After cooling overnight in the fridge and taking off the fat, what’s left?

Final stock

10 cups of homemade pork stock!

The recipe I used was from The Whole Hog Cookbook: Chops, Loin, Shoulder, Bacon, and All That Good Stuff, a recent addition to my cookbook library from which I expect to find many great pork recipes in the future…

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